SHACKET SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

Reinforce with fleece if necessary:

Button placket, cuffs (only half) the lower collar, pocket flap (only one part) and the upper edge of the breast pocket

Sew breast pocket

Pocket flap: Sew both pre-cut pieces together, right sides facing, leaving the top edge open. Turn, iron and topstitch. Sew in the buttonhole.

Pin the pocket flap to the marking on the front piece, topstitch, press down and topstitch again in the upper area.

Chest pocket: Fold the pattern piece right sides together at the marking. Sew along the short sides, clip the corners and turn right side out. The seam allowances will almost automatically fold inwards.

Press the seam allowances of the pocket inwards.

Pin and topstitch the center of the breast pocket below the pocket flap.

Main part:

Lay front piece on back piece, right sides together, sew shoulder seams together.

Sleeves:

Pin the sleeves to the sleeve cut-outs, making sure that the markings are aligned, and sew.

Sew the sleeve seams and the side seams continuously.

Cuffs:

Fold the cuff in half, vertically, right sides together and sew the narrower, slanted sides to create a ring. Press the seam. Turn right side out.

Fold the cuff in half and sew to the lower sleeve edges. Make sure that the seams are on top of each other.

Sew collars:

Pin the pattern pieces together, right sides facing. Sew the side edges and the top edge together.

Make sure that there is a lower and upper collar. The lower collar is a little narrower - so that it fits better.

The undercollar lies on top when sewing and is stretched to the width of the upper collar.

Trim the seam allowance in the corners, turn the collar inside out. Shape the corners, press the collar.

Pin and sew the collar to the neckline.

THE PERFECT COLLAR:

First sew the sides and the top edge of the collar together. Turn the collar inside out and press.
Place the collar over your fingers in the way you want it to fall afterwards. The upper collar should be facing upwards. The lower edges of the fabric now lie exactly on top of each other and can be pinned together.

Buttonhole placket:

Fold the buttonhole placket inwards at the marking. Iron.

Fold the button placket back over to the right, matching the pressed edges, so that the collar is between the front and the button placket. Topstitch the button placket. Turn right side out. Shape the corner.

The buttonhole placket at the bottom of the hem is still folded right sides together. Topstitch the placket.

Turn right side out, shape corner. Iron. The hem now disappears into the buttonhole placket and the seam allowance rolls inwards almost automatically.

Sew in the buttonholes on the right front piece.

Topstitch the hem.

The finished jacket length, measured at the back: approx. 110 cm